A Travellerspoint blog

South Africa

'Jozi'

Johannesburg, Soweto

Sanibonani! (you say Yebo!)
I’m just making the most of reliable internet connection while I can. I have a flight tonight to Zanzibar, back up in Tanzania as it seemed it was going to be too much of a hassle to get a visa for Mozambique….also will be a good chance to practice some Swahili before going to Ilongero.

I had a couple of days doing not too much in Johannesburg, just being lullabied to sleep at night by the sound of sirens in the distance. There are some serious looking fences here! I stayed in a suburb on the outskirts of the city, called Bramley, and came back to stay yesterday to take advantage of the free airport shuttle. There was some big soccer match on Saturday so all day I could hear vuvuzela’s going off….I was tempted to pull mine out and join in. My shuttle to the shops was a BMW with smashed up windows from a recent hijacking attempt – what a cliché!

Sunday I moved from the hostel here to stay in Orlando West in Soweto for 2 nights (sorry Mum & Dad, but I survived). The hostel was done up really nice and I was the only guest the first night so had plenty of attention. It was started by Lebo (now a bit of a celebrity) about 10 years ago when he worked selling crafts in the area and had a lot of tourists wanting to experience more of Soweto. He would take them to his parents’ home and let them stay there and so eventually he opened the hostel. The park opposite the hostel used to be a dumping ground until Lebo but the hostel now runs a youth program there.

On Monday I did a 4 hour bicycle tour around Soweto, which if anyone is ever here I could not recommend more highly. The guys who took us around were so informative and grew up and live in the area so it was interesting to hear how they have seen things change. We were warned if someone yells out “SHOOT” there is no need to duck from a bullet or anything, it simply means someone wants you to take a photo of them haha. Most of the area we saw was pretty nice, of course lot of identical tiny match box houses but no sign of the wired fences in the other Johannesburg suburbs, as we were to learn there is more of a community feel to the area. Thieves are still often dealt by community law – a beating. Homes still have paint over the numbers on houses which was done to confuse the police during apartheid.
We crossed one road though and it was quite a different world. It was the area that was created as a men’s hostel area during the mining days and the sheds still remain which were built for them. There are some apartments starting to go up and a recycling project but it is definitely the poorer area. Went into another shebeen and tried more homemade beer which seems to be a staple of every tour in Africa. I am still not sold.

Orlando West has been the home of Nelson Mandela, Walter Sisulu and Archbishop Desmond Tutu. We saw the former home of Nelson Mandela on Vilankuze Street – the only street in the world to have had 2 Nobel Peace prize winners as its residence (also Desmond Tutu). People were so friendly as we rode around “Welcome to Soweto good people” and the kids ran over to high five us – me with my uncoordinated bike riding skills was having some issues high fiving, and most times I ended up wobbling off my bike, to the kids delight. It was so funny as we rode past a pre-school all the kids were out playing and they ran to the fence screaming “abelungu” (white person) and followed us all the way around the corner and all pressed up against the fence absolutely screaming! We were taught some ‘gangsta slang’ – olaola and the response shapshap, which I don’t think I am gangsta enough to pull off. Same with the handshake meaning ‘peace, love and happiness’ with a click at the end…definitely not cool enough to make that look at all natural to me. We had a mid-morning snack of fat cake with chicken liver sausage (the fat cake was yum….the chicken liver sausage just had to be swallowed quickly without thinking about it) and for lunch had a local favourite of Kota. This would be the perfect meal for a hangover or on the way home from the club– ¼ loaf of bread with the middle scooped out and stuffed with hot chips, curry powder (I think), tomato sauce, salami, egg, cheese and some other type of meat, and topped with the scooped out bread.

Also had a ride around Meadowlands, which is the area where thousands of people were moved to after the forced removals of Sophiatown. The area is now known for its music influence and the African beats all night were a welcome change from the sirens.

The last stop of the day was the Hector Peterson memorial at the sight of the 1976 Soweto student uprising. 15,000 students peacefully marched to the police station with a memorandum protesting the Bantu education system when the police opened fire. Hector Peterson, at 13 years old, was one of the youngest students to die on the day. Olive trees line the street from the memorial down the road to the corner he was shot. 19 y/o Mbuyisa Makhubu was famously photographed carrying him to safety – Makhubu was forced to flee the country after harassment by the security services and to this day his mother does not know where he is or even if he is alive. There is a quote from her on a plaque at the memorial, which I think is really beautiful: “Mbuyisa is or was my son. But he is not a hero. In my culture, picking up Hector is not an act of heroism. It was his job as a brother. If he left him on the ground and somebody saw him jumping over Hector, he would never be able to live here.” It is a really nice memorial.

Yesterday I went to the Apartheid Museum. It is a fantastic museum! I spent 5 hours there and that was rushing towards the end. I could easily have spent another couple of hours there. When you buy your ticket it is automatically selected for you and printed whether you are ‘White’ (Blankes) or ‘Non-White’ (Nie Blankes). I was Nie Blankes and so had to use the delegated entrance. In certain areas they have done a great job of setting the atmosphere of the time.
Today I did a day tour of Johannesburg, we went to Constitution Hill which used to be a prison and was used a lot for political prisoners and when they knocked it down they used to bricks to build the new Constitutional Court as a way to show they are building the future from the past. Also went to ‘The Roof of Africa’ – The Carlton Centre - The highest building in all of Africa (only 50 floors but a good view of the city) then as it was getting dark drove through Hillbrow, the most dangerous area of Johannesburg…that was clear when the windows went up haha. Then at one set of lights saw a guy being beaten up on the street. Very interesting place. Was a really good day and good to actually see some of ‘Jozi’. Also drove by Mandela’s Johannesburg house in Haughton. Yes, I am a Mandela stalker.

Ok gotta pack quickly.

Posted by neerg_08 13:36 Archived in South Africa Tagged carlton memorial of museum hill africa top centre peterson backpackers johannesburg soweto apartheid constitution gauteng hector newtown hillbrow lebo’s Comments (0)

Kingdom in the Sky

Durban, Pietermaritzburg, Underberg, Sani Pass, Lesotho, Drakensberg, Johannesburg,

Cooooooweee! Coooweeeee! Coooweeeee!
Hope everyone is well. Just arrived in Johannesburg last night after spending some time in the Drakensberg Mountains area. From Durban last week I was dropped in Pietermaritzburg , Kwazulu-Natal’s ‘Heritage City’ and actually really enjoyed it. I forgot to mention that it’s been warming up more and more, even in the mountains here where I expected freezing temps. The day drive to Durban was actually HOT and arriving 9ish at night was like a mild summers’ night, the first since Dar es Salaam I think. I felt really old and boring at the hostel in Durban, complaining the next morning about the noisy drunks keeping me up that night. A bit of payback.

But anyway, Pietermaritzburg was interesting, a mix of historic buildings and run down alley way shops. And, as with Mthatha, lots of “Cheap, Pain Free Abortion” posters plastered on walls and poles. Not something you see everywhere. I sat at the park to read for a bit and then heard all this hooting and singing and chanting and looked up and there were 20 or so work utes and trucks slowing driving and honking down the main street, then the council workers all stopped, blocking both sides of the road and everyone got out and started singing and clapping out the front of I am assuming the council office. (My African drumming lessons from ‘Bongs’ at Port St Johns would have topped the beat off) Apparently they had been striking…that is all I found out as I don’t speak Zulu. This went on for nearly an hour, perfect to fill in the middle part of my day. People in the city were soooo nice to me which was lovely! Went to the Natal Museum but didn’t get long there as my shuttle arrived. Not to say that we left any time soon, as the van wouldn’t start so after a couple of runs to the petrol station, the driver – wearing a novelty multi-coloured top hat – had me and 2 schoolgirls (another school run/tourist shuttle) pushing the van to flat ground. Nearly an hour later we were on our way.

I stayed at Sani Lodge in the Southern Drakensberg near the Lesotho border. The hostel was nice and quiet and set amongst the mountains in Underberg. On Saturday I did a 4x4 Sani Pass day tour to Sani Top in Lesotho which was really really really great. Our guide knew EVERYTHING, though sometimes I felt like we did at Good News Week when he would tell a joke, not get the reaction he wanted, so he would explain it, then tell it again twice or until someone laughed louder. The drive up to the top was amazing, the mountains are so dramatic and the tops scattered with patches of snow. The road was not so amazing, and driving so close to the edge wasn’t all that relaxing. At one view point we all got out and started walking up it and the guide suddenly yelled SNAKE and we had all walked past it, oblivious as it slithered right between the group. Turned out to be a puff adder….I didn’t eat this one. You wouldn’t think simply crossing the border into another country there would be such a dramatic change in culture and landscape. The Lesotho border crossing is at Sani top, at 2873m. Lesotho is known as the Kingdom in the Sky, as it is the ‘highest country in the world’ having the highest low point (1452m). We crossed the Sani Flats to have lunch at Black Mountain, I sat next to a pile of snow and watched as a shepherd boy herded his Angora Goats past us. Then went and visited a Basotho village, tried some homemade beer and fresh bread, kept warm by cow dung. Rondavels with a white flag out the front mean they sell beer, and was interesting to hear that the culture is quite opposite to most of the others I have learnt of being here, in that the girls usually get the better education as the boys are more likely to spend time as shepherds. Also, the men build the homes and must knock and ask for permission from his partner before entering. No man is allowed to enter the house a baby is born and kept in until 3 months of age, as they can bring in bad spirits. We then headed back towards the border to stop in at Sani Top Chalet for a beer at the highest pub in Africa. REEEEAALLLLYYY enjoyed the day.

Next day I did a 6 hour hike around the mountains with a German girl. The first hour was all recently burnt grass, which I thought looked really pretty in contrast to the yellows and greens in the distance. She didn’t think so and was keen to turn back if it didn’t change over the next ridge – I was HOPING it didn’t change as well so we could turn back as I was dying already! I am going to blame the altitude…and not my lack of fitness. But it turned out to be even more beautiful on the other side of the mountain so we pressed on and I am glad we did. Really amazing scenery, saw some baboons and the leg of an Eland.

I forgot to mention that I met the Rolling Stones at the hostel bar at Port St Johns. Haha these 3 men, probably in their 60’s but the party hard years have aged them, still partying, smoking weed, living the bachelor life. And they still say “let’s bounce man” when time to leave. They were hilarious, and the one I was talking to - in his multi coloured patchwork pants – he spoke like a mix of Ozzy Osborne or Keith Richards.

Sunday night I tried to have an early night as I had to be up at 3:30am for my shuttle to the transfer back to Pietermaritzburg (PMB). At 4:30 the shuttle hadn’t come and when I called they knew nothing of it, and there wasn’t any taxis running at that time. So they said if I could get there by 8 they would arrange another way for me to get there. So I booked a taxi for just after to be safe, in case I was late. It was early so I thought great I’m on my way! Not so – the taxi broke down 10mins down the road, so he had to call another car which by 7:50 wasn’t there yet, then the driver wandered off down the road and I didn’t see him for a while. The transfer people gave in and came to pick me up and drive me to PMB themselves, which was awkward after how rude I had been on the phone (but at 4:30 who wouldn’t be). Then they realised they wouldn’t be able to get me there for the Bazbus at 9:30, which they knew was the whole point of the shuttle….so had to call the Bazbus driver and luckily he only had a few people so they waited for me. What a morning!
This took me up to the Northern Drakensberg area near Bergsville for 3 nights. I stayed at Amphitheatre Lodge, sort of set on a farm. Unfortunately I was a couple of days late for the ‘Women’s only’ party Saturday night, but the remnants of rainbow flags and banners and decorations remained. No question as to which person at the hostel organised it either.
On Tuesday I did another day trip into Lesotho which again absolutely loved. We drove through some of the old homelands areas of the Free State, which during apartheid were not considered South Africa, like the Transkei, and crossed the border, which was literally 2 white posts in the ground, unmanned. Driving past the roadworks the ladies working have their faces painted in a sort of clay as a natural sunscreen. In Lesotho we visited a village called Mafikalision, which is sort of on the way to Mokhotlong. This tour the hostel runs is the only tour to go here so it was all very ‘real’. People were so friendly. Our first stop was at a school where we got to see what the kids were learning, and distract their lessons :S Everyone just comes up to you and asks you to take their picture so they can look at it, so got lots of portrait photos. It’s funny, they’ll ask for a photo, then when you put the camera up put on a very serious face, then when they look at it they just laugh hysterically. We then did a walk through the village and up one of the mountains to look at some San rock art, which to be honest I could have just been looking at some discolouration on the rock but I did a lot of “oh yes I see it”. The view up there was really nice. Then went on a mission for a white flag. Success! At 30c for a litre, you know the taste is no good if even I only manage a sip. Lots of donkeys around, shepherds and more goats. We then went to the village pub, the ‘Two Sisters’ with the sign at the door requesting ‘Be Disarmed’.I would love to go there on a busy day and see the row of spears, knives etc at the door. Another really awesome day. That night I was woken by the biggest storm I have ever been in. The room was lighting up constantly for over an hour, and was told the next day that the area has one of the highest lightning strike rates in the world. We didn’t feel all that safe in our rondavel style room with thatched roof, and as it was double story, easily the highest object in a long way. Me and someone else in the room put our thongs on in bed.
Wednesday I had put my name down for a shuttle to take me to the Royal Natal National Park. It didn’t show up, but a French tour group offered to take me as they were going that way. They were all in their 60’s – early 70’s, didn’t speak a word of English besides the tour leader who luckily could translate, and I thought I had an easy day of hiking ahead of me. They tried to pay for all of my entrance fee’s and a guided walk to view some more San rock art, this time I could clearly see the paintings, some 800 years old. Eland and gazelle and buffalo and dancing people. Pretty cool.
Well I was wrong about the easy walk, I was struggling at the back of the group with one other man while they all powered ahead! I’m very easy going with my ‘hikes’, which sometimes would be better called a stroll, and I give myself a lot of breaks, so this was a tough day but had to try suck it up, how embarrassing if they had to wait for me! We tried to walk to a grotto, but after an hour uphill walk, that is where they decide to put the sign saying that that path is closed. So ended up walking to a waterfall which was nice. Then went to a picnic area and out came the French wine(much better than the usual box wine) and French liqueur, biltong (which I finally got to try) and we had a braai with the most delicious food I have had in a long time! Lamb and sausages and corn and fresh bread………I was so spoilt! I think as we drank more we all started to speak the same language and could communicate without the translator. Met up with them all at the hostel bar and they were buying shots all night, 4 or 5 in and I finally had them shooting them rather than sipping. Then was up dancing with them … but they had left by the time the Jacuzzi was on. They said I must visit them at their village in France. Yesterday was a painful day on the bus to Johannesburg, was happy to get into bed!

Posted by neerg_08 13:07 Archived in South Africa Tagged park national royal pass natal lesotho johannesburg durban sani pietermaritzburg underberg drakensberg kwazulu Comments (0)

Eastern Cape - Wild Coast

Port Elizabeth, Hogsback, Mthatha, Coffee Bay, Port St Johns, Durban

I arrived in Durban tonight after a really relaxing week on the Wild Coast. First night I think since Dar es Salaam that hasn�t been cold. It was like a warm summer night at 9 tonight when I arrived. From Port Elizabeth we left early on the Bazbus last Wednesday and drove 3-4 hours up to East London on the Eastern Cape Coast. From here I got a coach to a town called Alice, where Fort Hare University is located. Nelson Mandela, Oliver Tambo, Robert Sobukwe and Robert Mugabe all attended this Uni when it was known as the �South African Native College�. I had to get off here and walk through town looking for the place my lift was picking me up from. The lady picking me up said she could spot me from a mile away, there was no way I looked anything but a tourist. Then drove up to the Eastern Cape Inland to Hogsback, a small town 1300m up the Amathole Mountains, which rise from dry grassy valleys and farmlands around. I stayed at �Away with the Fairies� where my room overlooked the peaks of the Hogsback Mountains and from my bed (which wasn�t a bunk bed!!!) I could watch the rare Samango monkeys playing in the trees outside. Apparently this area was the inspiration behind the Lord of the Rings movies.

Last Thursday I did a hike, guided by 2 dogs from the hostel who genuinely did help me with my directions, through the indigenous rainforests to several waterfalls. Was nice to be on my feet after long days sitting on the bus. I had 2 nights in Hogsback then headed back down to be picked up from East London and head to the Wild Coast. The drive day was really pretty and interesting too as our driver gave us a bit of a �guided tour� as we drove through the Transkei (I�m not sure you are meant to refer to the area as this post-apartheid, I think it is all technically the Wild Coast now, but our driver was using this term and it is more well known soo�.). It was back to the Africa of the �other Big 5� � donkeys, goats, sheep, pigs and cows controlling traffic movements, thatched clay huts all painted greens and yellows and pinks, women carrying loads on their heads, and shores of rivers scattered with bright clothes and blankets drying as the women wash. We passed Qunu, where Nelson Mandela and Walter Sisulu grew up around. Also stopped outside the house the ANC built for Nelson Mandela and where he has been staying for the past few months. The flags were up so he was in there as we drove by! Little bit nerdy but exciting. From Mthatha I got a shuttle to Coffee Bay, a rural village at the mouth of the Umzimvubu River. There is not much to the town, but it was a really nice place to relax and catch some sun for a couple of days. The Xhosa people in the area are really nice and refer to the ladies as �Mama� and me as �Sissy�.Many of the women wear their faces painted with clay. I stayed in a tent on the edge of the river for the 3 nights (not because I miss being in a tent) and enjoyed the cocktail sampling throughout the days. One of the guys at the hostel took a few of us fishing at the Mthatha river one afternoon, but there was no fish on the menu that night. The driver I had to Coffee Bay and also back to Mthatha (after a few stops to do his grocery shopping) was the sweetest old man. It was all �Yes Sissy�, �Thank you Sissy�, �Sorry Sissy�. From Mthatha I got another shuttle to Port St Johns. Much the same drive as on the way to Coffee bay, along the winding road around the hills of the rural areas.

Port St Johns is another coastal town, and another one of those places full of people who had been travelling and just never left. I felt I could have been anywhere else in Africa driving through town, with fruit and veg stalls set up, African music playing loudly from falling apart vans, and lots of dreadlocks. My hostel was near 2nd Beach, on the side of a mountain and again near the river as it meets the ocean. The sign at the beach clearly states no swimming allowed, as the area is infamous for shark attacks and there have been several in the past year or so. But the sign also says no dogs, no drinking alcohol, no littering and many other �no-no�s�. I sat amongst the litter on the beach, patting a couple of dogs, watching surfers in the water, and guys on the beach drinking. So much for the sign. The area is pretty tropical, I did a walk around some of the hills around the coast and they are all palm trees and tropical plants which makes a really pretty view. Also did a hike to a few waterfalls, this time with a person as a guide though. And a dog as well. Spent a day relaxing on the beach, and was a bit annoyed when I heard a load of noise and was woken from my nap. I thought a beach party must be starting, but all was forgiven when I looked up to see 20-30 topless SA army guys splashing about in the water. And that was my afternoon sorted! The hostel was very laid back�.VERY laid back. Dreadlocks were all the fashion and funny cigarettes. Sometimes, I just want a simple answer to a question though (one of those �just asking to be polite and make conversation� questions). �Where are you from?� � �Everywhere/All over man��.just answer the damn question hippie! Or �Is that your dog?� � �I am it�s guardian� to which I laughed thinking he meant he means he is dog sitting, but then had to sit and listen to how �one can�t �own� another being��.bla bla bla, meanwhile I was just planning my escape. A few of us went up to the airstrip Wednesday afternoon for sundowner drinks. The airstrip is about 400m up and has 360 degree views of the whole area which was beautiful. This morning was back to Mthatha again and the Bazbus to Durban, just for the night though. Nice to be around people who brush their hair and move faster than snails pace again. Missing home, actually dreamt about eating vegemite on toast the other night. How depressing to wake up to my very nutritious mayonnaise on toast.

Posted by neerg_08 13:03 Archived in South Africa Tagged coast eastern wild port bay st coffee cape durban alice elizabeth transkei hogsback mthatha johns qunu Comments (0)

Jeffreys Bay

Jeffreys Bay

The township tour was really interesting, pretty rough though that the people living in these tin sheds have views of these huge mansions along the beach. We went to a traditional herbal medicine woman who showed us what she uses and what it treats, also popped into a shabeen bar for some traditional beer but were pretty quick to leave there....I think the men inside had been there for a loooong time. There were some better developed parts of the township where the homes were brick and larger. There is also a recycling project there that uses a points system for the kids in the area to collect rubbish, and when they get a certain amount they get toys or even a bike. The guy from the hostel that took us was really good and had some good info too. There are wooden posts on the beach, and these are still there from when the beach was divided during apartheid.
The hostel was really nice and a fun bunch of people there. Saw loads of dolphins swimming past this afternoon. This morning was my surf lesson and, look out for the next Blue Crush movie, i will be the star.....caught a couple of 10cm waves haha. And that was big enough for me. Arrived at Port Elizabeth tonight, just staying until the morning and getting back on the bus to go inland to Hogsback.

Posted by neerg_08 22:32 Archived in South Africa Tagged bay jeffreys Comments (0)

Life off the tour....

Cape Town, Knysna, Jeffreys Bay

Howzit!
I have just arrived at Jeffrey’s Bay, checked into my ocean view room at the Island Vibe and am listening to the waves crashing. Not bad for about $15 a night. Plus they do free activities here, tomorrow is a tour through the nearby township which should be interesting and I’m sure eye opening. And I’ve booked surf lessons for Tuesday, which I am sure won’t be warm but gotta test my skills at the home of the ‘best right hand point break on the planet’….whatever that means. Hopefully something to do with surfing in the whitewash. And hopefully the white pointers are all busy at the cage dive. Far away.

It is nice to be doing things on my own for a change, and the Bazbus is very convenient as we get picked up and dropped off at the door of the hostel and is a good way to meet people. Still have to work on picking up this dam backpack though, and packing…especially now that I bought this stupid big vuvuzela which wouldn’t fit in the box I sent home and doesn’t fit in the bag. I am determined to get it home though. I really enjoyed Cape Town but it was a bit more expensive than what I have been used to so good to finally move on after 10 days there. Also to have a few rainy days where I did absolutely nothing was really nice. Even got in an episode of Oprah and watched some news. As sad as all the tour goodbyes were, it was nice when everyone on the trip had left so no more eating out, just my cup-a-soup and salad sandwich diet.

Wednesday was a nice day so I waited for the ‘table cloth’ to clear from Table Mountain and then got the cable car up to the top, as it was too late in the afternoon to hike it (bummer). The views from the top are stunning, both sides of the mountain. I do love how it looks though when there is cloud covering the top. It’s very beautiful and such a pretty backdrop to the city. Thursday I did the Hop on Hop off bus around the beaches and city which was a nice drive and then went to the Slave Lodge, which used to be where the slaves were kept before being auctioned. That was an interesting place, in the 1700’s there were more slaves than free people in the Cape! Also did the Museum of SA…..not much of a museum person I don’t think. Friday I did a tour of the Castle of Good Hope, and old fort from….a long time ago. That was ok, but then went to the District Six Museum which was really interesting and sad. District Six was an area in Cape Town which had been a very close community and blend of cultures until it was declared a ‘whites only’ zone and residents were forced out of their homes to townships around the Cape Flats. The area was then completely demolished. District Six today even I could tell wasn’t the best area to be walking around, apparently especially around the museum area. While waiting for my taxi this homeless lady set up her blanket on the steps of the museum, and then tried to fight any people going past (In between her drug deals). When a policeman came over and told her if she wasn’t gone in 5 minutes he’d do something about it, she moved and then came back to annoy him. …that taxi couldn’t have been any slower arriving. There was a police car parked on just about every street that I saw in the area. You’re never alone walking down a street in Cape Town either – there are these parking guys who you have to tip each time you park and so they help you get in and out of the spot, and keep an eye on the cars. There are several on each street, and then there are all of the people selling The Big Issue magazine, a couple at each set of lights. Pretty good having these jobs created though.

Yesterday I got the Bazbus in the morning for the 7 hour drive to Knysna. There are huge areas of tin shacks lining the highway out of Cape Town, and all the drives we did around the coast while there you can see the huge contrast – beautiful beachfront or mountain view homes and then 5 minutes out of the town is the township where the hills are dotted with shacks.

As we drove up the coast we saw a whale at one of the beaches, in pretty close to the shore too. Hope to do a whale watching cruise at some point. Knysna reminds me of the town in the Truman Show, with neat white houses and perfectly manicured lawns. It is on a lagoon, so when I arrived in the afternoon I got a Tuk Tuk – how very Asia – with an English couple from the hostel around the heads which was a really nice drive and had a few viewing stops. Also crashed a couple of weddings, just quietly chugging in in our musical Tuk Tuk and drawing the attention away from the bride. I spent the next day down at the waterfront just having a read and then in the afternoon got the Bazbus to Jeffrey’s Bay. I planned to have 2 nights here but I have a feeling I am going to hate leaving.

Posted by neerg_08 22:29 Archived in South Africa Tagged town garden bay route cape township knysna jeffreys Comments (0)

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